Alfonsina: Where locality drives creativity

Restaurant review

We had planned to go the Alfonsina, the hot new restaurant in Oaxaca. Ronda and I wanted a celebratory meal on the last evening, a meal that would allow us to sit and chat about the fantastic week in Oaxaca, and allows to take back memories that we would remember for a long time.

The restaurant is a bit out of the main town, in Juan Bautista la Raya, so Ronda and I got into a cab for the 30+ minute ride, all the while chatting an out our expectations for this dinner. As we drove through parts of Oaxaca that we had been to in the previous week, we reminisced about our trip, the fun times we had, and the things we did.

We reached Alfonsino a bit early for our reservation, which gave us a moment to take in the beautiful space. There were carefully arranged pots of cactus paying homage to the arid land of Oaxaca. We browsed the two stores that contained woven clothes and textiles, and the second, handmade pottery, taking in the fine craftsmanship of the region's artisans. On many an occasion I wanted to pick up a piece for home, it was hard to resist.

Before we dive into the meal, let's understand Chef Jorge León. Chef León started as a dishwasher and quickly worked his way up the hierarchy. He worked under Chef Enrique Olvera at Pujol, where he was pivotal I the creation of the famed “mole madre”, earning him the nickname “Mole”. He then helped open Cosme in New York and Manta in Los Cabos.

He has now returned to his roots, his home and place of birth opening Alfonsina as a collaborative project with his mother. This is a superb restaurant, but it feels like a home. Polished, elegant, and yet touches of rustic Oaxaca seep in, to give a beautiful feel. The space is open, you are sitting under the trees and open sky, the cool Oaxacan breeze cuddles you so we needed a light jacket, and the open kitchen send wafts of aromas to welcome you. You are stepping into their ancestral home, not a glitzy restaurant, it is warm, the red brick inviting and the staff smiling, always smiling.

The courses came slowly, this is practised art of dining, creating memorable experiences. We started with pulque, an unfiltered drink from the sap of the agave plant that is lightly fermented (think toddy). Starting with pulque gives homage to one of Mexico’s oldest beverages, once considered the drink of the Gods. It was light, refreshing and with a tanginess that was pleasant. The alcohol is low and it is so sippable. Pulque, also referred to as “honey-water” is hot from a cavity made into the heart of the agave cactus by artisans called Tlachiqueros, who use a long gourd to suction out the juice. It is a living liquid, and will continue to ferment with time.

The first course followed in time, tacos with greens called verdolagas, roasted cauliflower and refried black beans scented with arbol chillies. Verdolagas are Mexican purslane, they have a lemony tart and salt driven flavour and the tender stems provide a nice soft bite. These tacos were an explosion of flavors, the ingredients coming together beautifully.

The soup followed quietly, homage to the chef’s roots and to his home town. The traditional chickpea soup, Sopa De Garbanzo, made with the simplest of ingredients. Here it was elevated with charcoal-roasted oyster mushrooms, fresh kale, and barely blanched fava beans. The soup traditionally silky on your palate and the vegetables adding texture, chlorophyll and earthy notes that complement it beautifully. This was a masterful dish of old and new, the chickpeas soup and fava beans traditional, the oyster mushrooms and kale perfectly inserting themselves to create a plate.

Next was my favourite dish of the dinner, the tamale. As we walked in I noticed one of the chefs steaming a huge pot and grilling over a fire. I walked over and asked what he was making, his answer was simple, “ This is Oaxaca, I am making tamales!”. And here they were!

Heritage corn tamales stuffed with kidney tomatoes and Teviche chillies. The tomatoes look like the heritage tomatoes we see in the stores, but are intensely flavoured, the chilies adding a pop of spice. The grilled cabbage on top adding smoke to the dish. I seriously considered asking for another one as I spooned the soft tamale with the filling off the banana leaf. I can guarantee you I will never think of a tamale in the same way again.

Throughout dinner, Ronda and I chatted, about the past week, reminiscing about everything we had done. The food of past meals and these plates in front of us, and how lucky we were to enjoy an evening like this together.

Eventually, the main course arrived, this is the reason we were here. It was shredded chicken over peanut molé and dotted with some curly kale. The mole robust, a mild pleasant sweetness to it, the chicken pairs with it perfectly. I am a huge molé fan, I love every style of molé I have tried, and I love making a good molé, the ingredients slowly cooked and ground, the sauce cooked, the aromas filling the kitchen and home. To me a molé is a labour of love, and this molé was perfection. I now recognise this chef for his nickname, as I slowly lapped up the dish. I shamelessly asked for a small bowl of the molé on its own, I wanted to relish its richness and complexity on its own, and pay homage to this chef.

As we ate the main course, Chef Jorge León stopped by and chatted for a while. Our conversation led us to his kitchen, shh!, please don't tell him I had already snuck in. He talked about extracting sugarcane juice for his dishes rather than using processed sugar, his commitment to fresh produce and regional ingredients. He is quiet but driven by his passion, a soft confidence that drives his ambition. He pointed to his vegetables that are sourced from local farms, talked about his commitment to bring forward local farmers and ingredients.

We stepped back to our tables for dessert, a fresh plate of fruit, mango and pineapple puree with fresh local peaches, garnished with almonds, toasted wheat berries, and coconut. It was light, the perfect follow-through to the molé.

Ronda and I sat for a bit, full, our palates tingling with flavors. We both expressed how much we enjoyed this dinner, slow and casual, and we had relaxed and were comfortable. But then this restaurant transcends being just a food destination. Chef León’s attention to detail, his obsession for perfection comes through in every plate.

And then our conversation with him struck home, this experience goes beyond the quest for perfect recipes, it takes you on a journey of discovery of endogenous ingredients, the cuisine of the region, and traditional technique through his mastery and creativity. He talked to us about bringing the culinary resources to the forefront, building awareness one diner at a time, and being the ambassador for Oaxacan cuisine. A huge vision that goes beyond the plate, a boldness that only someone as talented as Chef Leon can accomplish.

His ethos begins with a seasonal menu, it can change almost daily depending on the local and seasonal availability of ingredients. There is a seemingly never ending repertoire of dishes, showcasing the chef’s creativity. The restaurant is built into his familial home, it is not a glitzy uber-restaurant, but a home that infuses you with warmth and welcome. The setting is beautiful, the cacti in the yard, the sound of the roosters from the neighborhood calling the sunset, and the smells of meals from the neighbors kitchen bring you back to the land. And finally, there is the perfect confluence of modern and traditional cuisine. The heritage that he grew up with, and the experiences in the Michelin starred restaurants of the come world come weave there story together in elegance.

For me, there are a few experiences such as these, and this is one of the most memorable meals I have had. We could not have picked a better place for our last dinner in Oaxaca, this meal brought the week together, the markets, the food, the history and the people, served with beautiful grace.

Much as gracias, Chef León.